Royal Oak Ref. 5402BA

Not simply an old gold Royal Oak, the reference 5402BA is the original — the first solid gold Royal Oak ever offered by Audemars Piguet.

Originally unveiled at the 1972 Basel Fair, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 5402 made waves by reshaping the idea of a luxury watch. Crafted from stainless steel — an unconventional choice at the time — it challenged expectations with both its material and its bold design. Conceived by legendary designer Gérald Genta, the watch featured a sleek, integrated construction, highlighted by an octagonal bezel held in place with eight hexagonal white gold screws. The dial, finished in a now-iconic Petite Tapisserie pattern, reinforced its nautical inspiration and gave the piece its distinct character. Lean, sporty, and minimalist, the Royal Oak would go on to become one of the most influential designs in modern horology.

By 1977, Audemars Piguet expanded the Royal Oak line into precious metals for the first time, offering variants in yellow gold, white gold, and two-tone. The yellow gold ref. 5402BA, like the example here, was produced in limited numbers, just 736 pieces between 1977 and 1980. This particular version features a striking grey dial paired with a case-matching champagne date disc, creating a visual contrast that enhances the look. Compared to the earlier steel A-series, the yellow gold 5402BA represents a rarer and more opulent expression of the original design.