Master Banker

In the early 2000s, Franck Muller became inextricably linked with the music world, his bold designs resonating deeply with artists seeking watches that reflected their larger-than-life personas. At a time when the watch industry was largely dominated by conservative aesthetics, Muller’s oversized numerals, curved Cintrée Curvex cases, and unapologetically vibrant dials stood out as symbols of confidence and individuality. From Jay-Z to 50 Cent, Franck Muller watches quickly became fixtures in lyrics, music videos, and red carpet appearances, turning the Geneva-based brand into a cultural hit far beyond traditional circles of haute horlogerie. In the waning years, the brand’s popularity might have diminished, but the look remains unique and appealing — only now, Franck Muller is a value play.

Franck Muller walked so Richard Mille could run. One of the earliest independent watchmakers to make a meaningful impact, Franck Muller quickly earned a reputation for both technical brilliance and bold design. Since launching his eponymous brand in 1991, Muller has consistently challenged traditional notions of complicated watchmaking, blending classical high complications with a distinctly modern, often whimsical aesthetic. His signature design language — most notably the exaggerated exploding numerals and oversized tonneau-shaped cases — broke from the conservative norms of the time, offering collectors something entirely new. Beyond visual flair, Muller’s mechanical ingenuity shone through in both traditional complications like tourbillons and minute repeaters, as well as in playful innovations like the famous Crazy Hours, which scrambles the sequence of hour numerals and forces the hour hand to leap unpredictably at the top of each hour. Franck Muller is bold creativity in the often stoic world of mechanical watchmaking.

In the heyday of Franck Muller’s cultural icon status, the Master Banker was the model to have. It’s triple time zone complication, all adjustable via the crown, was unique and marketed towards “global financiers and frequent travelers.” The present watch features an extremely uncommon royal blue dial with a hint of green in the luminous material within the hands and exploded Arabic numerals. The case is executed in 18k white gold and set with 163 diamonds — why not?