The Art of Time: Rare and Coveted Watches

Lot 12


PIAGET

Piaget for Cartier Tank Ref. 9200 “Coral Dial With Onyx”

Estimate

USD $25,000 - 45,000


Starting Bid

USD $18,000

0 Bids

Reserve Not Met

Cartier’s history as a watchmaker is as rich as any yet; the brand, for so long, was not a watchmaker. For some of the earliest and most important wristwatch designs, Cartier turned to the experts — the Swiss — for execution. Aligned with how the Maison would serve the needs of its clients in other areas, such as writing instruments, lighters, and chess sets, Cartier itself was more a retailer than a maker. Jaeger LeCoultre supplied cases and movements for those earliest designs, like the Tank Louis, and other manufacturers, namely Piaget, began supplying Cartier with some of its more unique pieces in the 1960s.


What we have here is a square, Tank-style wristwatch produced by Piaget in the 1970s under reference number 9200. With a solid 18k yellow gold case inlaid with coral and onyx, and a coral dial, we can only imagine that the present watch was made in extremely limited numbers. In fact, this is the only one known to the market. While the market has not seen another example of this exact watch, it’s further worth noting that cases inlaid with hard stones are extremely rare more broadly. It’s possible this is the only watch produced by Piaget, more generally, with onyx and coral stone inlays. The case dimensions are refined, relatively understated in today’s watch world, but it’s worth noting that this would certainly have been sold and marketed to a man in its day.


Starting in the 1990s, CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) began to limit the use of coral in jewelry and watches. Coral dials, like the one we have here, are extremely uncommon as a result. The deep red and orange tones achieved through the use of coral are virtually impossible to achieve via other inorganic processes.


Similar watches can be found signed only by Piaget. These are highly coveted by collectors. The opportunity to own this, with the Cartier signature standing alone on the dial, is extremely unique.


If shipping internationally, additional CITES permits may be required for shipping.