Wool Bondage Coat

John Crancher's long-line wool bondage coat — a 1980s London adaptation of the bondage idiom that Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren had built across SEX and Seditionaries a decade earlier, here translated into a heavyweight tailored wool with full-length construction. Crancher's work belonged to the same Camden-and-Soho club generation as Stephen Linard and BodyMap; this piece is a particularly accomplished example of the bondage-into-tailoring move that defined the most ambitious club designers of the period.

The coat sits as a direct visual response to the Westwood/McLaren bondage jacket — the same strap-and-buckle vocabulary, run at full length and rebuilt in formalwear-grade wool.