Ceinture Concealed Dial

The Hermès Ceinture wristwatch captures the maison’s flair for fusing design and function into a seamless expression of Parisian chic. Introduced in the 1950s and produced in extremely low numbers, the model takes its name, French for “belt,” from its distinctive case, shaped like a stylized belt buckle. The form most obviously reflects Hermès’ deep roots in saddlery and leatherwork while pushing the conventions of watch design into playful, unexpected territory.

Crafted in 18k yellow gold, the Ceinture watch features a rectangular case flanked by a frame mimicking a belt buckle. The design is understated and intelligent, concealing the dial behind a hinged cover that integrates perfectly with the case geometry. Concealed wristwatches have a long history. In the early days of watches worn on the wrist, with most people still carrying pocket watches, it was viewed as rude to have the time visible, especially at a social function. These “secret” wristwatches were particularly popular with women in the 1910s and 1920s.

The case of the present watch was produced by George L’enfant, one of the finest goldsmiths and jewelry producers in France at the time. French-made cases are rising in popularity with vintage watch collectors due to their unique flair as compared to the more staid designs from Switzerland. A Swiss-made IWC caliber powers this Hermès watch. As Hermès was not a watchmaker in this era, the brand purchased movements from the best possible suppliers it could — Cartier employed a similar strategy at the time.